I was so excited to find these tiny Liquorice Allsorts in Zimbabwe. To be fair, I hadn’t actually gone looking for them . . . . so they might be in all shops here. But we’d been caught short once again and were STARVING and came across a small supermarket. Obviously we bought loads of healthy food too (we didn’t).
These were brilliant. And they were also the last packet in the shop – otherwise I would have run back in and bought all the stock.
A dollar a bag – ace!
Nyanga is stunning. There’s a national park there, and the highest mountain in Zimbabwe. We stayed at the Pine Tree Inn which was tired but also comforting. It reminded me of being on holiday at my grandparents.
That’s me above on the Skywalk. That costs about fifty dollars a person. Which seems a lot when you think about it. . . . but it takes hours to get there, so you really should indulge. And once you’ve overcome your fears, it’s mega. (and wet. and windy.)
Here I am swinging about and trying to make TikTok content while sixty zillion feet above the ground. But look, I am tied on, so it was all good!
Well, there is a lot of driving involved and deciphering of faded maps on boards and faded maps on photocopies and differences in opinions between people you meet on the road as to what’s the best road. By best road, I mean one with fewest pot-holes.
There’re walks and waterfalls and pits and forts and views. We had a massive plan and – as ever – ended up doing something entirely different. You need to be able to go with the flow in Zim! Or, go with a local.
There’s also a Cecil Rhodes Museum at the park entrance. It didn’t quite know what to do with itself.
The park is massive and crosses the main Nyanga roads with a few entrance points. We failed totally to understand what is where and how to get there. I’m telling you, there is a massive opportunity to write a tourist guide for Zim . . . . but the roads are such a complete patchwork, I’m not sure how long it would take! Do not rely on your sat nav either . . . . be prepared to be frustrated and cross and resigned.
Your swimming knickers! There are some lovely pools and spots by waterfalls. Lots of food and drinks – we bought pizza for lunch from Froggy Farm and took that into the park. There aren’t any shops inside the Nyanga national park that we found, or that were open while we were there. Take a jumper – it gets cold and foggy quite quickly. And, sun cream – when the sun’s out, it’s mega hot.
The small town of Nyanga has a supermarket with teeny tiny liquorice all sorts. That made me happy.
Head into one of the resorts. We popped into Troutbeck and the MontClair (?) and grabbed refreshments at both. These are outside the park though.
Pretty cool weekend. We spent Sunday here with a picnic.
I was terrified of swimming in this pool. It’s an ex-asbestsos mine apparently. And is luminous green. 24 hours later I am pleased to report that I am still alive.
The pool’s at Mutorashanga. We had a map pin, and instructions from a friend, and we still went wrong. Always ask the locals. They’re great – and so friendly.
As ever, when we turned up, so did a million locals. To take pictures, and film us. I rather love than about Zim – there is no shame in curiosity. You have to be prepared to have no qualms about being in pictures, chatting to everyone, feeling like an idiot as everyone chats about you, and laughs about you, while you’re standing there in your swimming pants. In all fairness, if I learnt to speak Shona, I’d be a lot better off!
The lake was a couple of hours journey from home – roads generally good but a bit bumpy for about 30km.
This was a great day out, even though we thought we’d never get there. It was really hard to find any information about the day, prices, tickets etc etc . . . we even went to the course first thing in the morning to ask staff milling around and no one knew anything. But that’s life in Harare, Zimbabwe!
This happens to us a lot in Africa and we are learning to be flexible and go with any flow. People eventually shuffle us to the right place to be. And everyone is always very kind.
The event was free to park and to enter. We just turned up and wandered in. But, we were denied entry to the racecourse building as we were ‘underdressed’ . . . it’s true, we were, because we had no idea of anything! It felt like this was where the elite horse owners and co hung out. AKA the white Zim community
You can buy VIP tickets in advance – which I think include lunch – but we couldn’t ascertain from where or whom. Eventually we met a chap who gave me his number and asked me to text him for next time, he apparently can ‘sort us out’. I will update this if I find out how anyone can buy VIP tickets without having to go through an intermediary.
The event ‘opened’ at ten, and the first race was about 11.30 . . . they ran every half hour or so . . . and then there was a huge concert in the non-VIP area which started at about three.
In the non-VIP section (we were the only whites) there were lots of food stands selling chicken, sausage and sadza (pictured left). And soft drinks.
There was plenty of beer to be had, and a music stage. The beer tents and music stage blocked the view of the races from the terraces. I’m not sure if anyone minded that much?
The port-a-loos were clean enough, with a lady handing out individual sheets of loo paper from a bucket.
If you’re not a VIP, the terrace seating is concrete. You might want a rug or cushion to make it more comfortable.
The chicken cooking line was quite a spectacle. The ladies on the left unwrapped and split the chickens in half. Then the meat was marinated in a dustbin, before being grilled. Chicken (half), chips and a coke was $6. That’s US. You’ll need cash most places. I have yet to see a ZIG (the new currency introduced a couple of weeks ago).
We saw seven races (I think). We bought a race card for $2 and tried to place bets in the bookie building on site . . . but they didn’t take bets for Borrowdale. We had to go inside the building which we’d already been refused entry for (underdressed as we were), so we never ended up making any bets . . . . or taking any winnings!
The horses paraded before and after the race around a small enclosure. There were interviews but these were only broadcast at the VIP end of the spectators area, not the main. Similarly with the race commentary. So if you want to hear what’s going on, you need to be up by the VIP area.
This is a photographer we chatted to a lot, It was his first time covering the horses. He was happy for me to take this picture of the shadow from his hair . . . but didn’t ask for a copy so I guess he didn’t like it as much as I did!
Overall, the day was lots of fun. We met tonnes of lovely people who wanted their pictures taken with us (I’m guessing not many white-non-VIPs turn up), and had a great time chatting with workers, watchers and music fans.
I was really rather surprised by the split between white and black Zims. It wasn’t marked out, or enforced, just an iterative split between VIP and non-VIP I suppose? I am sure I will learn more about this as I get to understand more about society here. We have now been to several places where we are the only whites, but have been made to feel welcome everywhere. The people in this country – all of them – are so very friendly.
Zella Compton 